Emissions Test:
>Is '81 a dyno emissions test or a stationary idle/revved test?

81 is eligible for the regular tailpipe sniffer test.

> Basically, the 2F is a rich running engine that
>requires a functional air injection and catalyst system to meet emissions
>requirements.

Not true! Yes, it prefers to run a bit rich, but I have 20 years of numbers
to demonstrate that the air injection system makes no difference to CO
versus how well the cruiser is tuned!!!

I know the theory of how the injection system is supposed to work, but in my
experience it makes little difference compared to how well the truck is
tuned! Did I mention tuning?

The cat has nothing to do (relatively speaking) CO, it is mainly for
cracking NxOx.

First, do a good tune up. Oil change (yes this actually helps), air filter
element, plugs, PCV valve. Next set your timing. Since your 81 is
electronic, you have no points to adjust or replace. Static timing is 7°BTDC
per factory specs. At our altitude, your cruiser will run better and get
better mileage considerably more advanced than that, BUT you need to retard
the timing some from optimum to get better emissions numbers. Make sure the
carb is clean. Gumout spray cleaner for the outside and inside the air horn,
then run a can of BG 44K through with your next tank of gas. BG 44K is about
the only thing that seems to really work on the insides other than a rebuild
with "carb dip". It's pricy at about $20 a can, but Mountain States sells it
and gives us our normal discount on it.

The next thing, as has been mentioned, is jetting. Your main jets ( 4 of
them, 2 primary and 2 secondery) predominantly control the mixture at any
throttle setting above idle. At our altitude, smaller jets help, a lot. Jim
Chenoweth set up both my FJ40s carbs for our altitude and it helps a lot, I
get 16-18 MPG in my 71 and routinely commute going 75 MPH uphill passing
other cars. But, unfortunately, I am told that a lot of these jets are no
longer available. Jim has a private stash I think. Anyway another thing to
know about mixture is that the idle mixture (adjusted with the screw at the
base of the carb on the valve cover side) not only controls idle mixture,
but also controls total fuel flow under all throttle positions, there is a
steady flow through the carb idle circuits which is relatively static no
matter the throttle position, even though the jets control the majority of
the fuel flow.

Don't go overboard as you turn this screw in to lean it out. I failed once
because I leaned it out too much and got "lean miss" at idle. Nominal
factory setting is to turn it in to the stops, then back it out about one
and a half turns.

> Make sure your air pump and control valves are working
>correctly.

Not necessary in my first hand experience. Theoretically the air pump and
properly functioning ABV can't hurt though. FYI, the EGR is also for NxOx,
not CO or HC.

> When the check valves rust out, they let hot exhaust back up
>into control valve and can muck them up. Do you have the Toyota emissions
>book? You can barrow mine if you like. I found it invaluable for testing
>the numerous emission systems.

I too have the factory manual but it is for my 76, and the 81 has a lot more
stuff, it's pretty similar to 60s of all vintages. I have learned a lot from
it, but have learned more from first hand experience in our state from
having to get my 40 through emissions for so many years.

Another trick I have learned is to bump the idle up a bit. Factory is 650
RPM or so, a little higher seems to help. Won't make a lick of difference at
the 2500 RPM part of the test, but can sometimes help if the idle portion is
all you are failing.

Speaking of which, what were your actual numbers compared to passing Matt?
In other words, how close or far were you from passing?

HTH and happy cruisin'!

Jeff
 

Thank you Jeff Zepp!  You can find more about this at Jeff's page!